So, like a lot of people, I’ve long been on the search for the perfect Switch controller. For me, it wasn’t about stick drift. I just decided that the Switch was going to be my main console, wasn’t impressed by the Pro Controller, and wasn’t going to play 3-D games on the standard Switch joycons.
My first attempt was just to adapt a PS4 controller to the Switch with the 8-Bit Do wireless adapter. That worked okay, but I’m actually not that big a fan of the PS4 controller.
In an effort to just skip to extreme luxury, I got the first X-Box Elite controller and a Brooks signal adapter built specifically for it that fit like a glove and allowed it to work on Switch and PS4. The look was awesome, and the Elite controller is very good, but I play games infrequently enough that it was a hassle to remember the button combinations to switch the adapter to Switch mode before playing. I like console games for the just-works immediacy of it, and it was always a bit fiddly.
Also, over time, the Elite controller showed a lot of wear. I live in Thailand, which has a tropical climate that wears most materials down much faster than non-equatorial climates. So, the “invisible” rubberized layer on my Elite has gotten uneven, an alternate thumbstick I wasn’t using has started to decay, and the one I typically use is pretty worn down now. Also, from day 1, the Elite’s main thumbstick had a little too much snapback when it reset to 0–it will actually bounce a bit in the opposite direct, so I’d register a double input in the opposite direction annoyingly often.
When the Hall Effects Guilikit controller came out I was excited to give it a shot. It had the form factor of the Elite and would be a lot more convenient for use on the Switch. Plus it’s designed with repairability in mind, spare parts readily available, and has the Hall Effects sticks.
Unfortunately, out of the box, my Guilikit has a slightly sticky B button. At first I thought it was just a quirk of the controller–that the buttons were super-mushy. But with some play I realized it must be a factory defect in just one button. Also, the best controller review dude on YouTube (Gamer Heaven) pointed out that the Guilikit has major input accuracy issues, which I think I’ve felt. Though I’ve been told there’s a firmware patch for that.
I didn’t ultimately end up doing anything to fix my Guilikit, because at the same time I bought an 8-Bit Do Ultimate Wireless, which has been great. Convenient pairing with the Switch, solid build quality (also uses Hall Effects sticks), good feel, and no input issues so far. Plus it has some paddles that…I haven’t bothered to set up. I guess there’s an app. I do like the ergonomics of the Guilikit/Elite more (the handles are less straight, which I think flexes your wrists less), I recommend people the Ultimate, unless they’re trying to save a buck (I think the Guilikit is usually a bit cheaper). Though if repairability matters a lot to you, a new Guilikit probably wouldn’t have the issues I experienced.
Finally, for Tetris 99, I think the pack-in Wii-motes with the pack-in grip might be my favorite Tetris controller ever. The separate face buttons for direction are everything. Probably the best Tetris input is just a good keyboard, as you mostly just want to instantly communicate twitch button presses. But in a controller form factor, separate buttons are SO MUCH better than a D-pad. I feel the same about the Tetris Arduinoboy, which also has separate buttons.
